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Fuggle's Truck Engine Restoration

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  • #31
    26th October 2019:

    The usual two steps forward and one back with Fuggle's truck.

    I had an inkling that the sump wasn't properly lined-up with the rear crankshaft oil seal. It was too easy!

    So I split the engine and sump again and had a look. Sure enough, the sump half of the scroll seal OD was showing signs of being polished by the crank on one side. The block was therefore inverted and the sump put back on, along with the dynastart to line it up at the front. Then I stuck a dial gauge on the crank and put the dial on the sump, next to the seal housing. There was 0.015" of sideways movement at that point so I set it in the middle and clamped it there.
    Two of the sump bolts on Talbots are supposed to be dowels as well, helping to line up the sump without having to do the dial gauge thing each time. Fuggle's bolts were all the same diameter (7.9 mm) and all the holes seemed to be clearance holes at 8mm. I decided to ream the most obvious candidate holes on each side with a 21/64" reamer (It didn't take much!) and made a couple of suitable dowels which are close fits in these holes from hex stock. Once I've used my Coventry Die Head and put threads on them, they will substitue for the bolts.
    Of course, I now need to make sure the gearbox is lined up properly - Again.
    Maybe this has solved this one?
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    • #32
      10th November 2019:
      Who’d have thought that a classic car show at the NEC would provide me with TWO original Payen cylinder head gaskets for Mr Fuggle’s Talbot 14/45?!
      How spindly are they?! The vendor asked his assistant to pull out those “spider’s web things” from under the counter.
      Now to work out how to clean them and find someone that can anneal one of them for me.
      Oh, and Mr. Fuggle made it to a national classic car comic - Classic and Sportscar December 2109!

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      • #33
        18th November 2019:

        Mr. Fuggle has a big empty space in his workshop!

        After a bit more reassurance that the gearbox and sump are properly aligned by buying a smaller dial gauge and trying to follow Arthur Archers' instructions in the Talbot Technical Manual, I think it's as close as I can get with the engine and sump not having met each other for many years after leaving Barlby road in different chassis and both being introduced to the gearbox at around the same time (who knows)!

        For exactly 18 months, the workshop it has been filled with the engine from his truck, both on and off Cecil's marvellous engine stand. This weekend, it went back in the truck.

        We really hope that it doesn't have to come out again, it was a bit of a faff to shoe-horn it in there and get all the mounting bolt holes to line up. In the spirit of the whole rebuild, though, it's one step forward but another back - the chassis member under the gearbox looks to have been fitted too far to one side so that the gearbox will foul it on its right hand side when installed, which it shouldn't. More investigation needed.
        For now, though, chalk this up as progress!
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        • #34
          24th November 2019:

          Steps forward with Mr. Fuggle's truck this weekend!

          The crossmember under the gearbox wasn't square in the chassis last week so that when the engine was in, the gearbox would have sat on the crossmember on the drivers' side and undoubtedly clattered about. It's held on only with nuts and bolts so it was taken off and the mounting holes slotted by 10mm on Mr. Fuggle's milling machine. It's now central in the chassis and the gearbox is in!

          Mr. Fuggle has made new bolts now (3/16" Whitworth heads, M6 threads as original!) for the balance pipe that connects the sump of the engine to the gearbox and feeds oil to the gearbox so this can now go on. Next steps: torque tube and prop shaft fitted to the back of the gearbox, back wheels back on, dynamotor fitted and brakes reconnected.
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          • #35
            1st December 2019:

            Mr. Fuggle needed a gasket for the Dynastart on the front of the truck engine.

            Mrs. Fuggle has a Brother Scan n' Cut machine.

            This thing is effectively a plotter that can be fitted with pens or a cutting knife. It can apparently cut all the stuff crafters would ever need - that must include 0.25mm gasket paper right? After a few happy hours teaching himself how to work it - Result!
            I have saved the file I produced to make this so if anyone else needs one, let me know!

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            • #36
              1st December 2019:

              A bit of progress again for this weekend on Mr. Fuggle's truck. The clutch has been fitted with newly made bolts and the torque tube, back axle, brake "hogsback" and back wheels have all been screwed back on!

              I even took the time to fit a new felt 'wick' oiler between the gearbox and the handbrake housing. I'm not sure if this was ever very satisfactory but I suppose time will tell!

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              • #37
                10th December 2019:

                Another weekend of progress on Mr. Fuggle's truck!

                The original exhaust and inlet manifold is a one-piece affair which is matched with a one-piece manifold gasket. Those who have been following closely (sad!) will remember that I have a modified system with separate inlet and exhaust manifolds. I therefore need separate inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets.

                No such things are made but one can purchase the correct material in sheets. Mr. Fuggle has cut out the exhaust parts from a one-piece gasket and then using a template made from the inlet manifold itself cut out new gaskets for that.
                This is a bit like a Haynes manual "simply cut out new gaskets from the sheet material". Yeah, right! This stuff is stainless steel sandwiching a resin layer (I think) which is impossible to cut with a scroll saw designed for wood! Two plywood templates were made and three pieces of the gasket material were sandwiched and bolted between them. Then a hacksaw cut out the majority while the rest was shaped on a linishing machine. With the whole lot still bolted together, the central part was chain-drilled out and cleaned-up with a half-round file. Fiddly!
                When fitted all together, the exhaust manifold was prevented from seating by a small bulge in the casting for the water manifold - this is apparently normal for an Arthur Archer pattern part which this is. So, a little die grinding, followed by filing, sand papering and finally Brillo pad action and there is now clearance and it's all fitted to the head - well, it will be once the stainless socket caps arrive!
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                • #38
                  10th December 2019:

                  With the cylinder head nearly complete, thoughts turn to cylinder head gaskets. I have a pattern one I've had for nearly 2 years but it was a bit of a struggle getting over all the studs intact. My way round this is to fit the gasket, then the studs. However, I came across two new old stock Payen gaskets at the NEC show last month for a very reasonable sum!

                  They were pretty grubby and looked like a church roof - nice virdigris! How to clean them up gently?

                  Mr. Fuggle's Fantastic Foaming Carb Jet Fettler! OK, it's not foaming but it helps with the advertising!
                  After soaking one of the gaskets for 4 hours in the magic jet cleaning solution, it's pretty clean! I can even read the part number which was stamped on with ink, showing that the solution is pretty gentle.
                  No, it's not Ferric chloride, I could use that to make gaskets from sheet!
                  Next step: Heat treatment to anneal the copper!
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                  • #39
                    22nd December 2019:

                    A nod to modernity for Mr. Fuggle's truck oil system.

                    The original oil filter is two cylinders of brass gauze, one fine one coarse (on the right in the first picture). This is fine to filter out small boys and potatoes but probably not great for filtering out the sort of stuff that really can mess up your new white metal bearings.

                    To the rescue came Cecil Schumacher with one of his lovely CNC machined spin-on filter adapters. This fits snugly in the hole vacated by the original filter and even has provision for the original cap to be fitted. It has two 1/2"BSP unions that take two large bore pressure pipes which lead off, under the front of the engine, to a Mocal filter head and conventional spin-on oil filter. The body of the adapter incorporates two anti-surge valves which counteract the propensity for the oil to surge out of the filter top and all over the engine under heavy braking. This is often an issue for a 3 litre Talbot, I imagine, but I suspect isn't something that Mr. Fuggle will need to worry about with the AD 14/45 brakes the truck has on the front!
                    I made the bracket for the filter head and partially fitted the components together. Typically, I'm waiting for for some 1/2"BSP/1/2"NPTF fitting adaptors to complete the circuit but it gives me time to paint my new bracket.
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                    • #40
                      Martin,
                      That looks a lovely conversion and very neat. It also ensures you have plenty of room for the SU carburettor and levers!

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by gordon higginbotham View Post
                        Martin,
                        That looks a lovely conversion and very neat. It also ensures you have plenty of room for the SU carburettor and levers!
                        Thanks, Gordon, but I can't take any credit, I'm just the "fitter" on this occasion, it's Cecil's inventiveness that is at play there.

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                        • #42
                          26th December 2019:

                          A bit of Festive Fuggling!
                          The Fuggle truck was fitted with an SU carb when I first took custodianship but the other Talbot in my life "borrowed" it and its adapter just to get it started. It ran way better than the Zenith I had refurbished for it so It will stay with the SU.
                          This meant that I have two Talbots but only one Zenith to SU adapter.
                          The one on Fuggle isn't a very professional looking part and may have started out as a pair of flanges TIG welded to a central tube. It also has the carb too close to the radiator so the carb has been "modified" to clear the radiator.
                          I have spare SUs around so I could have butchered one of those to get the SU end but no spare Zenith to get that end. Neither do I have TIG skills (I do have a TIG set-up but no talent yet). I do have a milling machine though!
                          I attacked a 20mm thick square of aluminium with a hole saw and enlarged the resulting hole to 1 1/4" with a boring tool in the Myford (I don't have a 1 1/4" hole saw!). Then the holes for each carb were drilled in the block, followed by a counterbore for the Zenith screws.
                          Some Warco milling machine action (for hours!) and the part was complete. A bit of cleaning-up and a bead blast and my SU H2 fits fine! The new adapter is about 25mm shorter than the other one so I may still not be able to get an air cleaner on it but I can at least leave it un-butchered to clear the radiator.


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                          • #43
                            I think that the original inlet manifold had the carburettor mounting holes horizontal so the adapter should have not been necessary! But most 11/4" SU have vertical mounting holes and the horizontal ones are quite rare. On my car the SU is a bronze bodied one with horizontal mounting holes but mine has quite a long body so there is not much room to the radiator. I will take a photo and post later.

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                            • #44
                              Here is the photo:

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                              • #45
                                Martin,
                                Re Bronze bodied SU with horizontal stud arrangement. Have a look at this page: http://joecurto.com/lagonda-2-litre-...n-carb-convers

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